Oryx is a modified KD860, designed by Bernd Kohler. The main alterations I made to the design were to lengthen her from 8.6 metres to 10.0 metres and, of course, to change the rig to a junk. There were many other modifications, so that the completed boat is very different from the standard design.
Oryx’s dimensions are:
LOA 10.0m (33ft)
LOA 10.0m (33ft)
Beam 5.6m (19ft)
Draught 0.6m (2ft)
Sail area
51.5 sq.m (544 sq ft)
The rig has side by side split junk sails. I got the idea from Poppy’s rig, and I am grateful for much help from Slieve McGalliard. Instead of bulging panels I made half wishbooms with the sail loose footed and attached only at the luff and leech to each batten. The jiblets are set on hinged boomlets, again loose footed.
The rig works very well but there is a lot of weather helm when going to windward, even in light winds. I am not sure why this is so, as on paper she should be well balanced. Oryx does not have keels, and the hulls, aided by antivortex panels, are used to prevent leeway. Maybe this changes the usual centre of lateral resistance.
Something will have to be done to correct this, either altering the rig or putting keels on the hulls. When reaching, there is some interference between the sails, but this is a fast point of sail, and the interference can be eliminated by a small change of course. Sailing downwind is wonderful, with the balanced sails making gybing easy and safe in all winds. With the sails ‘wing and wong’, Oryx will almost steer herself.
The self steering is by a pair of Bill Belcher OTG I windvanes, connected to the tillers directly. The windward one is used until the wind is on the beam; and with the wind abaft the beam, both can be used to double the power.They work very well, but close hauled the excessive weather helm makes them struggle a bit. Down wind they work extremely well, steering a very straight course, even with spurts of over 10 knots.
Oryx has one engine in the starboard hull. It is a second hand 18 hp Volvo 2002 saildrive, with a 3 bladed Kiwi prop. It works very well, but being one sided it makes manoeuvring in tight spots very difficult. Top speed is a little over 6 knots.
Electricity is generated by two solar panels (total 120 watts) and a wind generator, and is stored in two 6 volt golf cart batteries, giving 200 amp hours. So far we have rarely been short of electricity. All the lights down below are LED and the tricolour light is also LED.
Sailing instruments are a compass, a barometer, an echo sounder, a small GPS/chart plotter and a combined VHF/AIS set.
The pictures of down below should explain the layout. We cook on a two burner alcohol stove and like it very much, it uses on average 2 litres of alcohol a week. After 30 years of being a pressure paraffin fan I have changed because of the difficulty of obtaining paraffin and the very high cost of spare parts.
The heads is a ‘Natures Head’ composting toilet. It works by separating the urine from the solid waste. The solid container is primed with 6 litres of peat and each time the toilet is used a handle mixes the contents together. The urine container needs emptying every two days and the solid container every month (with two people). There is virtually no smell and it seems to be the best solution to a difficult problem.
The dinghy is a Bolger Nymph, an 8 foot plywood dinghy with a sailing rig, but no outboard.
Oryx took 2 years to build, largely single-handed. I have not added all the invoices together , but she cost a little over £20,000 (my labour being free). She is our cruising home, and is very comfortable at sea and in harbour. As soon as I sort out the weather helm problem, she will be a great boat.
China Moon was designed and built as a seaworthy ocean cruising home for short handed sailing. The unusual double junk rig provides for safe and easy handling. Sails can be hoisted and reefed from inside the cuddy without getting wet. Hinged carbon fibre battens give the sail a good shape. As well as her superb off wind performance she also sails well to windward and tacks easily,
Construction is marine grade Okume plywood. Epoxy and glass sheathed on the outside and epoxy coated on the inside. The hull, deck and cabins are foam insulated with an inner skin of plywood. This keeps China Moon cool in the tropics and warm and dry in cold weather. All windows, hatches and bubbles are double glazed.
China Moon has low aspect ratio keels with thick fibreglass base to enable her to dry out on uneven bottoms. The keels also protect the hulls from damage. The rudders are skeg hung and semi balanced.
China Moon was built in South Africa in 2003 and has since cruised to Brazil, Argentina, Patagonia, Magellan Straights, Beagle channel, Cape Horn, Antarctic, South Georgia and across the Southern ocean to Cape Town. China Moon has sailed up to the Chesapeake via Brazil, Caribbean and Bermuda. Recently across the Tasman Sea to New Zealand. Very seaworthy ocean cruising home.
She is very easily driven and slipped along nicely with the articulating battens giving the sail a nice shape. The log was not calibrated but the estimated speed was about 3 knots to windward in a Force 3 and tacking through 100°. There was noticeable leeway, but not excessive.
As soon as the wind picked up to a Force 4 she seemed much happier with very little leeway and was doing about 5 knots. The strongest the wind got up to was the bottom of Force 5 and she was then sailing at about 6 knots and tacking through 100 – 110° with no problems. There was a firm but not excessive weather helm.
A close reach was her fastest point of sailing with speeds up to 8 knots 60° off the wind. With the wind right on the beam in a Force 4 she was sailing at 5 – 6 knots.
Both sails were pulling well but probably not at their most efficient, as the windward sail was feathered a bit and the leeward one was not in clean air. With the wind abaft the beam both sails were working well and once the wind was on the quarter she more or less steered herself. Sailing at about 4 – 5 knots in a force 3 – 4 wind the sea was flat, so of course the ride was very smooth.
The next two sails had up to Force 8 gusts, so it was not easy to analyse the performance.
The 10 people aboard must have weighed in at over half a ton and although she seemed a bit slower it did not make that much difference. The third sail ended up with several of the bat ten joints broken and a couple of the batten tubes bent, as well as flaring of the tubes ends at the joints, so obviously the battens were too weak. I was loath to give up the articulating battens as they give the sail such a good shape and I am sure that a flat sail would ruin China Moon’s windward performance. I have now made carbon fibre battens using the old alloy 38mm OD x 1.6 mm wall tubes. My original joints were of white oak with a 3° taper on each of the cone ends. I have made the new external joints out of 50mm OD x 3mm wall plastic pipe with a heavy layup of unidirectional carbon and plenty of glass and carbon going around the tube, it was not a cheap arrangement, but with 18’ long
The 26’ masts are hollow Douglas Fir and 8” OD at the partners. They are quite stiff and there seems to be little bend. They are mounted in tabernacles and quite easy to lift up, using the big rope winch on the centre deck.
China Moon swallowed 10 people sailing her without being the least bit crowded.
The engine in the one hull works fine and she is very easy to steer going ahead, although going astern and manoeuvring in a marina is very difficult, especially if there is any wind, but with a 23’ beam I could never afford a marina again.
The plan is to finish the essentials such as the self steering gear and a bit of electricity, then sail to Brazil via St Helena and spend several months in Brazil finishing China Moon off, before heading south to Argentina.
If any other members are planning on putting a junk rig on a cat then I hope they will be encouraged by my efforts — it does seem to work. I would say that two important aspects are keeping the masts well apart. (The centre of each mast is 18’8” apart) and having some shape in the sail.
Progress Report December 2003
China Moon made a good passage to Brazil via St. Helena and later headed south to Patagonia, but it was decided not to continue to the South Shetlands as originally planned until the self steering is working better, so we are headed north back to Jacare in Brazil.
On passage we broke new ground by going up the Rio Negro to Viedma and were told that we were the first yacht that anyone could remember having paid them a visit.
Apart from some small problems China Moon is proving herself to be a very able vessel. I am still learning how to get the best out of her. She sails very well to windward, a bit sluggish in a Force 2 but once the wind gets to a Force 3 she starts to move. The stronger the wind the better she goes. In a Force 4 – 5 she will be doing 5.5 to 6 knots and tacks through 100° (in a smooth sea) and 6 to 7 knots in a Force 6, there is little leeway. She sails much better to windward than I had expected. I’m sure the articulating battens account for much of this. The carbon fibre battens are holding up well with no sign yet that they will break, and we have been out in some quite strong winds. There is some interference between the sails on a reach but it is not a problem as it’s a fast point of sailing anyway. Downwind China Moon is a dream with the sails “wing & wong” she will steer herself.
China Moon was designed to be a comfortable cruising Catamaran to be used for long voyages to remote cruising grounds. Fitting a junk rig on the boat was a major consideration. Having read about the successful junk rigged catamaran ‘Dragon Wings’, designed and built by Gary Lepak, I felt it feasible to design my own boat.
China Moon was built in South Africa over a period of 3 years. South Africa was chosen as a country with good access to materials, inexpensive and with a good climate, it proved to be a wise choice.
I used a hard chine design program called ‘Plyboats’. It ran in DOS and was very simple but it gave all the design outputs of displacement, centre of buoyancy, centre of lateral resistance and expanded offset tables for the panels.
The hulls were dory shaped with flaring topsides and the hulls were built in two halfs.
The lower half was built of 12mm plywood sides on 30mm stringers, over bulkheads, with polystyrene foam between the stringers and an inner layer of 4mm plywood.
The bottom was a layer of 12mm plywood.
The lower hulls were built upside down and then rolled over.
The upper hull was then built on top with bulkheads, stringers, foam and 9mm plywood on the outside and 4mm plywood on the inside.
The cabin and deck were built the same way but with 6mm plywood on the outside.
The inside was completely coated with several coats of epoxy and then varnish or paint.
The outside of the boat was sheathed in glass and epoxy before painting.
The low aspect ratio keels are 10 feet long and 18” deep, built of plywood.
The keels are hollow and form the diesel tanks, holding 175 litres each.
As launched there was no cuddy over the front of the cockpit, but the early cruise to Patagonia revealed how exposed the cockpit was and the addition of the cuddy made a huge difference to the shelter in the cockpit.
An 8′ dinghy lives in davits behind the after beam, which makes launching extremely easy. On passage the dinghy is stowed on the centre deck, just forward of the cuddy.
China Moon was originally launched with a 27HP Yanmar 3GM30 saildrive in the Starboard hull. This proved completely adequate, as long as not needing to manoeuvre in tight places with any wind blowing.
The new owner of China Moon subsequently (in 2010) replaced the engine with Yanmar YM30 saildrives in each hull, making the boat very manoeuvrable. The engines have 2 bladed folding propellers.
A 1:12 scale model was built of China Moon to test the balance of the rig in relation to the hull, rudder and keel. It was found that because multihulls hardly heel the COE of the sail does not need any lead over the CLR of the hull.
The rig is a biplane junk rig with the masts set at the outboard edge of each hull in tabernacles.
The hollow masts are Douglas fir built using the “birds mouth” 8 stave method, covered in glass and epoxy.
The rig is a slightly modified Reddish rig with articulating battens.
The battens are made of 1 1/2” alloy tubed with unidirectional carbon fibre covers.
Originally there was a mizzen sail mounted on the centre line, on the aft beam. This was designed as an ‘air rudder’ to help with tacking, but China Moon is exceptionally good at tacking on her own and the mizzen was removed.
The accommodation down below is as follows:
Port Hull
Forward in the port hull, we have a sealed, watertight compartment that serves as a collision bulkhead, keeps weight out of the bows, and provides space for empty jerricans. Some of these will hold extra fuel in case we intend to be away from civilisation for an extended period of time, while others will provide additional water for lengthy voyages.The heads compartment is located abaft of that. The heads themselves are at the forward end, with a wash basin on the port side, with storage underneath.
Heads
The heads’ own hatch makes it easier to use from the deck and eliminates the need to constantly walk through the galley. With floor-to-deckhead vegetable racks on one side and an oilskin locker on the other, the space between the heads and the galley is essentially a vestibule. At the forward end, there is an opening scuttle.
Galley
In contrast to Badger’s fantastic galley, the galley on China Moon is big. Additionally, we plan to use this hull at sea, especially in bad weather, so the counter area behind the Dickinson diesel cooker/heater will serve as a makeshift chart table. In addition, we’ll have a permanently mounted single-burner paraffin cooker, in use when in warmer climates. There will be plenty of room for lockers.
Saloon
The raised saloon along the entire width of the hull, will also heat this area more efficiently.
Six people may comfortably sit in the saloon, which is 6 feet 6 inches long, and eight people can squeeze in.
There is plenty of book-shelves and storage in the galley.
Many, double glazed, windows along the outside of the hull (galley and saloon) offer uninterrupted view and provide plenty of natural light inside, when underway or at anchor, while cooking, reading or just relaxing.
On the inboard side of the saloon there will be bookshelves in place of a window. Another window is looking into the cockpit, which is useful .
Twenty-two fifteen- liter water containers will be stored beneath a table that runs along the centre.
Sleeping Cabin
Past the saloon, there is the after-sleeping cabin which has plenty of headroom as well as storage underneath and at entry. It is placed in the most comfortable area of the boat. This bunk, which is four feet wide at the head, will serve as a berth for guests and is suitable for cold weather or at sea when we are keeping watch. There is plenty of storage underneath it and some shelves on entry.
Starboard Hull
The bow of the starboard hull also has an enclosed, waterproof chamber. There is a workshop with a suitable small workstation where we will store tools, paint, fenders, ropes etc. The workshop is separated from the next cabin by a completely watertight bulkhead. This, yet another watertight compartment, will keep the smell of paints, etc. away from the rest of the accommodation.
Master Cabin
The next cabin aft is a sleeping cabin, which we intend to use as much as possible, but certainly in harbour and in hot places. There is a good, 4ft 6ins wide double berth, with clothes lockers either side and another bookshelf, above which there are windows along the outboard cabin side.
The front of the cabin has an opening scuttle. There is a hanging locker and a little seat for comfortable dressing aft of the cabin. There will be additional lockers here because of the little wings. To prevent water from seeping into the sleeping cabin, a sill separates the floor from the chart room.
Chart Table
There will be plenty of room for charts beneath the full seize chart table and for books above it.
The ladder is across from the chart table.
Additionally, the cabin’s exterior has windows – the same as in the port hull.
As we will have to cross from one hull to another in the pouring rain and subsequently dispose of wet clothes, there is an oilskin locker here.
In order to utilize the entire width of the hull and view out of the windows when seated, the area behind the chart table is raised (as in the port hull).
“Snug”
A portion of our library and a small solid fuel stove will be here. There will be a built-in table for computer so we can write in privacy and comfort. For chilly mornings or evenings, that don’t require a Dickinson range to be lit up, we may use this ‘snug’ space as a place to warm up and relax.
We’ll need to see how it functions in actual use before we can be certain. Another advantage of this arrangement is that if we have a couple staying with us, we can turn this hull over to them in its entirety, which will give both plenty of room and privacy.
Engine Room
The engine room, which is large enough to provide adequate access to the engine and enough room to store a few bicycles, is located in the after end of this hull and is once more divided by a completely waterproof bulkhead. The reconditioned Yanmar 3GM saildrive engine is ideal for a dory hull.
“Won’t we go round in circles?” is the typical question we are asked. Our reading suggests that it won’t really be an issue unless we use marinas, which is not our plan.
Other JR Boats
Bob Bums of Roamer lied here for a whale during his circumnavigation. He visited us a short while ago and might be bringing Roamer here in November. Therefore, there is a chance of three junk-rigged boats being in the water at once at Port Owen Marina!
We want to add more about building Badger but that is still work in progress. It was a long time ago.
Our next major undertaking was the removal of Badger’s keel and the fitting of a new one. The most difficult bit was getting the old one off, as we had glued it on with West system and with every intention that it should stay in place.
Pete made a whole saw to fit over the keel bolts. After removing the nuts sawed around each keel bolt, through the epoxy wood of the floor, down to the keel-hull joint. Now the only thing holding the keel on was the epoxy on the keel to hull joint.
Secondly, we took a hacksaw and sawed into the bottom of the boat all around the keel, to encourage a clean break. We then jacked up the hull and waited for the keel to drop off. It didn’t. In order to give it a start, we cut into the (wooden) trailing edge and then belted in an oak wedge. The joint split slightly. Encouraged by this, we continued forcing in wedges until finally only six inches of hull and keel were still glued together. One more bash on the wedge and the two tons of keel finally tore away from the hull, Good stuff this epoxy!
Fitting the new keel was relatively easy. Because we had one that was “surplus to requirements”, the keel bolts (all nineteen) didn’t match up with our holes, which were drilled through the 4” laminated pitch pine floors. Thus, the first task was to laminate a keelson in situ and then. measure where the holes were to go. Being somewhat impressed with our first attempts at gluing on a keel, we did the same again, drilling oversize holes and filling them with epoxy. In the event, this turned out to be a good thing, as the keel flange had not been tapped perfectly, so that several of the bolts were slightly out of true and would have been difficult to align in self sized holes. Our local crane driver did his usual masterly job, we had a “dry run”, slathered epoxy about and then placed Badger gently on her new keel. It suits her surprisingly well and I think that once she has been painted so that everything is the same colour, the hull and keel will look as though they were made for one another. We are dying to try it out and see if it makes any difference to her.
Late in the Autumn we got fed up with working, and doing our sums decided that we could jack it in and accordingly have done so. Since then, Pete has had numerous offers of boat building work, so there is obviously plenty around, not much in wooden boats however.